I think it’s high time that this dang sweater stops looking like a muscle shirt when my husband tries it on. Don’t you agree?
The only problem is that he’s not a fan of the fairly over-sized sleeves that the original pattern calls for. Ugh. Nothing is ever simple.
So, it’s time to get out my scratch paper (or rather, the back of the pattern), my calculator and start figuring out what I need to do.
OK. Before I even have to start doing math I know a few things:
1. I have 82 stitches (about 20 inches) at the top of the sleeve, set aside from when I split the body for sleeves.
2. I need to get down to about 40 stitches (about 10 inches) at the top of the cuff.
3. My sleeve needs to be about 15 inches (about 105 rows) from where I’ll pick up my stitches to the top of the cuff. (I based this on my husband’s arm length, and the length of the sleeves of his favorite sweater.)
Now it’s math time.
If I need to go from 82 to 40 stitches, I need to do 42 decreases somewhere on the sleeve.
(82 sts at the shoulder-40 sts at the cuff=42 decreases)
I’ll do two decreases per decrease row, so I’ll need to do 21 decrease rows.
(42 decreases/2 decreases per row=21 decrease rows)
And, I want to space those decreases out evenly over 105 rows, so I’ll work a decrease row every 5th row.
(105 rows/21 decrease rows=5 rows per decrease row)
So that means, I’ll knit four rows evenly (while still making sure the stripe pattern matches up with the body), then I’ll work a decrease row (knitting all stitches, except for working two decreases at the underarm). Easy!
Hopefully, this’ll look good. It’s a more extreme decrease than I usually use for sleeves, but it might work. Luckily, I’ll be able to finish one sleeve, have the husband try it on, and get his approval for the next sleeve (or, heaven forbid, find out I have to redo the sleeve! Cross your fingers for me).Have you ever had to rejigger part of a pattern? How did it turn out for you?