Sock Week: Gussett

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Today we’re going to do the sock gusset.  I don’t know why, but I always feel like “gusset” is a vaguely dirty word.  I don’t know why though.  I  guess I’m just being weird.

Anyway, the sock gusset is the part of the foot right next to the heel.  To make the gusset, you’ll decrease two stitches every other row, until you’re back down to your Sock Number of stitches.  It’s super easy, and kind of fun watching your little decreases line up nicely.

So, remember how your needles were numbered last week?  Starting at the back of the heel/bottom of the foot, and working your way around in the knitting direction like this:

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASo, needles 1 and 4 are the bottom of the foot, and needles 2 and 3 are the top of the foot.

See how there are approximately a billion stitches on needles 1 and 4?  And see how there are only stitches equal to 1/4 of your Sock Number on needles 2 and 3?  We want to decrease stitches on needles 1 and 4 until they have the same number of stitches as needles 2 and 3.  Does that make sense? (I can’t actually see your response, since this is the internet, but I’m going to assume you are nodding or at least giving me a blank look.)

OK, so here’s what we’re going to do:

Row 1: Knit to two stitches before the end of needle 1.  Knit these two stitches together (k2tog).  Knit needles 2 and 3 with no decreases.  On needle 4, slip, slip knit (ssk) to work the first two stitches together, then knit to the end of the row.  You will have decreased 2 stitches on this row.  If you need a reminder about the difference between k2tog and ssk, try this video.

Row 2: Knit even (no decreases).

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until all of your needles have the same number of stitches.  See how the decreases line up nicely, and make cool triangle-y shapes on both sides of your sock?  That’s your gusset.

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Next time:  Instep (the stupid-easy part…. yay!)

Sock Week: Pick-up artist

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So, sorry dear readers, but today’s episode of sock week is going to be short and sweet.  I have to go make some emergency cakes*, so my knitting and blogging time is going to be cut short today.  (I know… woe is me, I have to go bake cakes.)

Anyway, today we’re going to do the set-up row for the foot part of the sock.  It’s a little fiddly, but not too difficult.  Much like the rest of making socks.

So, after turning the heel, your sock should look like this:

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I’ve numbered the needles again, for your reference.

Knit to the end of needle 1

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Then, still using needle 1, pick up and knit stitches equal to one quarter of your Sock Number from the side of your heel flap.  My Sock Number is 60, so I will pick up 15 stitches.  If you were careful with slipping the first stitch of each of your heel flap rows, you should actually have the proper number of spaces in which to pick up stitches.  (It’s hard to explain, but once you try it, it will make sense.)

Picking up stitches is just like knitting, only you don’t need live stitches to start with.

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Insert your needle where you want the stitch to go.

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Wrap the yarn around your needle, just like you do when you knit.

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And pull the stitch through.

If you haven’t done tried picking up stitches, this is a pretty good video.

When you get to the last picked-up stitch, pick up both the usual slipped stitch as well as the stitch below, then knit it as normal.  This will prevent your sock from having a little hole on the side.  If you skip this step, it’s not a big deal, but it makes a nicer finished product.

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Knit needles 2 and 3 normally:OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Then, using your fifth needle, and continuing in the same direction around your sock, pick up and knit the same number of stitches up the other side of the heel flap.  If you want to do the fancy-pants no-holes pick-up, like on needle 1, do it at the beginning of this needle.

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Then, using the same needle, knit the stitches from needle 4 as normal.

So, what you should end up with is:

Needles 1 and 4: A bunch of stitches, but both should have the same number of stitches.

Needles 2 and 3: Both of these should have stitches equal to a quarter of your Sock Number.

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If you fold your sock in half, it should look kind of like this (quite sock-like, I think):

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Next time, the gusset!

*Emergency Cakes-Cakes that one has to make at the last minute when your friend begs you to bring desserts for a fund raiser that is happening this evening.  Stressful, but tasty.

Sock Week: The Turn of the Heel

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So, I don’t know about you, but my heel isn’t square-shaped, so we probably shouldn’t make our socks square-shaped, too.  To do this we’re going to “Turn the Heel.”  I got completely confused the first time I did this, so I’m going to do my best to help you through.  We can do it together!  Solidarity!

Anyway, “turning the heel” involves making short rows across the heel flap and throwing in some decreases as we go, to make the heel… well… heel-shaped.  The goal is to end up with a little round, cup-shaped heel.  “Short rows” are rows that are knit only partway across.  This lets you start building up 3-D structures, instead of just flat pieces.  Some people use short rows for things like puffy sleeves or fitted bust lines on sweaters, or faces on teddy bears etc.

OK, so get out your sock and follow along.  You’ll be starting from the marker at the back of the sock.

First, do this:  Knit 2, K2tog (left leaning decrease), knit 1, wrap and turn. (This video is a good tutorial for wrap and turn.  Ignore the part where she talks about hiding your wraps, though.  That’s more for sleeves or other things.  That doesn’t matter so much with heels.)

Your first row should look like this:

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Turn the work and Purl to the marker.  Purl 2, P2tog, Purl 1, wrap and turn.

It should look like this:

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Turn the work back to the knit side.  See where there is a gap from where you wrap and turned?  Knit until one stitch before the gap.  Knit the two stitches on either side of the gap together.  Knit 1, wrap and turn.

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See how the k2tog closes up the gap so nicely?  (I haven’t done the last k1 or the wrap and turn yet):

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Then, do the same thing on the purl side.  Purl until one stitch before the gap and purl the two stitches on either side together.  Purl 1, wrap and turn.

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Keep on repeating these two rows:

-Knit to 1 before the gap, k2tog, k1, w&t

-Purl to 1 before the gap, p2tog, k1, w&t

You’ll work more and more stitches each row that you work.

When you get to a point where you can’t do another full repeat of the pattern, stop when you’re back at the marker, on the knit side.  Your heel should look like this:

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We’re getting there!  Your sock is looking sockier and sockier!  (sockier [sok-EE-er]: adj. more like a sock)

On Friday we’ll pick up stitches to get set up for the gusset.

Sock Week: Getting Flappy

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How’s your sock looking? Pretty tubular?  Now, you could just make a big tube and close it up at one end and say “Hey, It’s a sock!”  But I think foot-shaped socks are much better than tube-shaped socks.  They are more comfortable and more interesting to knit.

Here’s what you should have so far (I’ve numbered the needles for ease of discussion later):

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Needles 1 and 4 are the back of the leg/heel/sole of the foot.  Needles 2 and 3 are the shin and the top of the foot.  The end of the row is between needles 1 and 4.

Set aside your fifth needle for now (don’t loose it, we’ll need it later).  Using needle 4, place a marker, and knit across needle 1.  You’ll have half your stitches on one needle, which you’ll work back and forth to create your heel flap.  It will look like this:

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Using just this needle, work the heel flap back and forth, following the following rules:

  1. Work the heel flap back and forth, not in the round.  Do not knit any of the stitches on needles 2 or 3.
  2. Since we’re doing stockinet stitch back and forth, make sure to knit one row and purl one row.
  3. Every time you start a new row, slip the first stitch.  This makes a nice edge that will make it easier for us to pick up stitches later on.
  4. Your heel flap is done when you’ve worked rows equal to half your Sock Number. (My sock number is 60, so I’ll work 30 rows for my heel flap).

When you’re done, work back to the beginning of the round (in the middle of the row/where you put the stitch marker).  It should look like this:

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Wednesday, we’ll turn the heel!

Sock Week: Starting at the top

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ARE! YOU! READY!

I am.  And apparently overexcited.  Or possibly over-caffeinated.  Which is often the same thing.  Without further ado, let’s get started.

So, these are “top-down” socks, meaning that we cast on at the cuff, and work down to the toe.  Some patterns are worked “toe-up,” but it’s really just a personal preference if you like top-down socks or toe-up socks.

Since these are top-down socks, you’ll cast on your Sock Number of stitches (I hope you remember it from Wednesday).  I cast on 60 stitches, because that was my sock number.

Divide your stitches evenly among four of your  needles (15 stitches on each needles, in my case).

Then…. knit the leg of your sock.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

For my basic basic socks, I like to do 1 inch of k1p1 ribbing, then stockinet stitch (all knits, since we’re working this sock in the round) until the leg measures about 6 inches.  BUT, you can do anything you like.  Think about this sock leg as a canvas for you to play on.  The rest of the sock is pretty standard, but you can add all sorts of fun stuff to the leg, if you like.

How about:

Ribbing?

Stripes?

Lace?

Colorwork?

Tall socks?

Short socks?

Take a look through pattern books and at pictures of socks and find something you like.  As long as the pattern you choose (ribbing, lace, colorwork etc) uses a number of stitches that divides nicely into your Sock Number, you are free to do whatever you like.   So, work on your leg over the weekend, and we’ll move on to the heel flap on Monday.

Sock Week: Your lucky number

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Are you ready to get started?!  I know I am!

 

But, before we really start knitting, we need to get your SOCK NUMBER.  It’s super important, and getting an accurate number will ensure that your socks fit properly.  All you need to do is make a swatch, measure your foot and do a tiiiiny bit of math.  Then we can get down to the business of making your socks!

 

OK, so first, make a stockinet stitch swatch with your yarn and needles that you’ll be using.  You can look at this post if you need a refresher.  Come back when you know the gauge (in stitches per inch) for your swatch.  I’ll wait.

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Cool!  What’s your gauge?  Mine is 7 stitches per inch.  You should write this down somewhere so you don’t forget.  Muy importante.

 

The next step is to measure your foot (or the foot of the person for whom the socks are intended).  Measure the circumference of the widest part of the ball of the foot.  I like socks to be a little snug, so I can wear them in sneakers, so I try to keep the tape measure tight when I measure my feet.

I am wearing a sock in this picture.  You should not wear socks when you measure your feet.  My feet are disgusting (I roller-skate a lot, so my feet are covered in bruises, blisters and callouses), and I like it when people read my blog, so I decided to hide my feet for your viewing pleasure.  You’re welcome.

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Hey, look!  I have feet that are about 9 inches around.  (I wear size US 12 shoes, for reference.  So if you have little delicate lady-feet, you haven’t measured wrong.)

If you’re making socks as a gift for someone else whose feet you don’t have access to, here’s a pretty good reference for foot sizes.

 

OK.  So now you have your gauge (mine is 7 sts/in) and your foot measurement (mine is 9 in).  Now we have to do a tiny bit of math.  I promise it’s not scary.

First, multiply your gauge and your foot measurement:

7 x 9 = 63

Then round this number to the nearest multiple of 4.  If you want a sock that fits snugly, round down.  If you want a sock that’s a smidge looser, round up.  I like my socks snug, so I’ll round down to 60.

 

That’s it!  That’s your Sock Number.  My Sock Number is 60.  What’s yours?
On Friday, we’ll actually cast on, and start knitting.  I can’t wait!

Sock Week: Gathering your troops

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So, what do we need to get started on your brand new wool socks?  Not too much, actually, which is pretty great.  You don’t need any really weird buttons or anything, and you don’t need hundreds of dollars worth of yarn.  All in all, socks might be the perfect project.

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Materials

  • Sock yarn (duh).  I used Lion Brand Sock-Ease for the finished sock in the previous post.  In the tutorial I’m going to be using Zoe Sock yarn from Shalimar Yarns in the colorway “Melba.” (It’s a beautiful peachy-sunny yellow, despite the bland name… Melba Toast…ew.)  You can use whatever yarn you like.  When I’m buying sock yarn I look for three things:

1.  It has to be machine washable.  I am not a crazy person and am not going to hand wash my socks. That’s super dumb.  If I’m making wool socks (which are undeniably the best socks), I use yarn made from Superwash Wool.  Yarn that has a small percentage of nylon or polyester mixed with the Superwash Wool are good, because it adds strength to your socks.

2.  I need 100 grams of yarn (about 450 or so yards) to make a pair of adult-sized socks.  Most sock yarn comes in 100 gram skeins, but sometimes it comes in 50 gram skeins, in which case you’ll need to buy two.

3.  It has to say “Sock” on it, or it has to recommend using size US 1-3 needles on it.  If you use yarn that’s too thick, you’ll end up with socks that are too big to fit in your shoes.  You could do this, and use them as slippers, but that’s a personal choice.

  • A set of 5 Size 2 knitting needles.  I like short (5-inch long) wooden ones, but it’s totally up to personal preference.
  • A tape measure.  If yours has fruit on it, that’s ideal.  If not, that is acceptable, too.
  • A stitch marker (optional).
  • Scissors and a tapestry needle for finishing up.

So, go and collect your materials, and I’ll see you back here on Wednesday to get you Lucky Sock Number sorted out.

Sock Week: First Thing’s First

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shark-week-discovery-channel

It’s Sock Week!  Surprise!  Sock week is a lot like Shark Week, but with less blood, more socks, and it will last more than a week.  But Sock-Fortnight doesn’t sound as good as Sock week, so you’ll just have to deal.

So what does Sock Week entail?  It’s a step-by-step knitalong to make my Basic Sock Recipe.  At the end of Sock Week, I’ll put the whole kit and caboodle up in my Pattern Library for your sock-knitting pleasure, and you’ll have a brand-new hand-knit pair of socks.

“What are we making?” you ask.

“Great question!” I answer.  “This:”

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“Ooh, aah” you say in wonderment.

Not really, I suspect.  But, if you get the hang of this basic sock recipe, you can easily modify it to make socks in every shape, size and style.

Get your wallets ready to go shopping for materials next week, when I give you the materials list.

Inspiration: The Bletchley Circle

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Have you seen this new miniseries on PBS?  It’s pretty much made for me.  It’s a crime procedural drama, costume drama, and (as Netflix is always suggesting for me) a Witty British Drama Featuring a Strong Female Lead.

Actually, it features several strong female leads.  The main characters are a group of ex-code breakers that worked at Bletchley Park during World War II.  Apparently I wasn’t paying attention in history class, because I had never heard of it.  Apparently much/most of the codebreaking in WWII was done by women, which is pretty neat.

Anyway, the ladies of Bletchley Park have had to go back to civilian life after the war, and are made to sign a non-disclosure act, so they can’t even tell their husbands about their wartime efforts.  They’re all sort of bored and unhappy with their civilian lives, after the excitement of being codebreakers.  But, then they discover a serial killer and investigate him as they fight against the clock to prevent him from killing again.  It’s all terribly exciting.  The last episode ended with a huge cliffhanger, and I’m itching to figure out what happens!

But, when the ladies of Bletchley Circle aren’t fighting Nazis or hunting down serial killers, they’re knitting:

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They even use yarn as a crime-fighting tool (see it on the map in the background?)

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Bletchley 7

All the characters have fantastic hand-knit sweaters.

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And even though the percentage of sweater vests is a little high for my taste, I won’t complain too loudly.

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Bletchley 5

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Want to get in the spirit of the Bletchley Circle?  I wouldn’t recommend chasing after a serial killer, but maybe try one of these cardigans instead:

Vitruvia Vest and Cardigan by Marilyn King

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Neon by Joji Locatelli

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Anais by Kim Hargreaves

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Swatches

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Swatches are lame. And dumb. And I don’t like doing them. But I do them. Because you have to. They are important. Like vegetables. Or doing sit-ups.

I get it; you’re all excited for your project to start. You got out your really cool knitting bag, and you have your lovely new yarn next to you, and those great new Addi Turbos, and you’re just itching to jump in and start knitting up that fantastic new sweater.

Making a gauge swatch is like measuring twice and cutting once (didn’t your teacher/dad/grandpa/random authority figure ever say that to you? OK… Just me). Without the proper gauge, your super beautiful, complicated cabled sweater is going to end up fitting your kid sister, or being too big for Shaquile O’Neil. And that would be sad. Making a gauge swatch is quick (ish) and painless (or at least more painless than having to tear out an entire sweater after you finished).

Cast on enough stitches so that you have about 4 inches of knitting.

Knit in the pattern called for in your pattern. For example, if the gauge says “4 sts/in in garter stitch”, knit in garter stitch. If the pattern says “7 sts/inch in lace pattern #1”, knit lace pattern #1. Work the gauge until it is roughly square. Bind off loosely, or transfer the live stitches to a piece of scrap yarn.

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(For some reason I decided to be fancy and add a seed stitch border to this swatch.  This just adds more work, but if that’s what you want to do, I won’t stop you.)

 

Once you have the squareish swatch, lay it out flat. People who actually are good at this stuff say to wash and block the swatch the way that you will treat the final product. That is too much effort for me. Yes, doing that will give you a more exact result, but I don’t wanna. *pout* I just give the swatch a couple tugs in either direction to make the stitches sit nicely, and lay the square out flat on a table, couch cushion, or my leg. If the swatch is being particularly squirrely and trying to roll up, I might throw a couple pins in the edges to hold it flat, but not pull it too tightly (Pin it to the couch cushion… not your leg).

Then using a ruler, tape measure or gauge counter, I’ll measure three or four spots in the middle of the swatch, and see how many stitches will fall in an inch. If I get different numbers of stitches, I’ll average them out to get my working gauge.

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(See how there are 5 stitches  for every inch?  I even marked some of them for you.  This swatch has a gauge of 5 sts/inch.)

If you’re swatching a pattern (like a lace or some sort of fancy-pants ribbing) you’ll do things a little differently. Instead of counting how many stitches in an inch, you’ll count how wide a single repeat is. Since you know how many stitches are in a repeat, you can use that to get a gauge.  For example, a lace pattern takes 15 stitches and is 2 inches wide. Then, your gauge is 15sts/2inches, or 7.5 sts/in.

So now you have your gauge. Is it right for your pattern? If the gauge is too big for the pattern (a lower number than the pattern’s gauge), go down a needle size or two to get the right gauge. If the gauge is too fine for the pattern (a higher number than the pattern’s gauge), go up a size or two, and try making the swatch again.

I know… it feels like busy work, but it’s totally worth it.